Majestic Hikes and Spectacular Coasts
Experience breathtaking hikes and thrilling dives into the ocean!
When the Portuguese discovered my birthplace of Taiwan, they named the island "Formosa" or "Beautiful Island". But perhaps that name would be just as fitting for Terceira, a small and relatively unknown island 1000 miles off of the coast of Portugal.
The name Terceira simply means "third" as this was the third island to be discovered by early explorers that first encountered the islands of the Azores. This island has a rich history and at one point was the sole landmass representing the kingdom of Portugal during the Portuguese succession crisis of 1580.
Today, it is largely an agricultural landscape with a population of some 56,000 humans and nearly double the number of cows! It is responsible for some 40% of the dairy production of Portugal and it shows in the abundant pasture lands and cows seemingly on every hill and around every corner.
For visitors, Terceira offers abundant destinations whether you seek adventurous hikes or exhilarating dives into the waters of the Atlantic. There are numerous well kept and well marked trails (https://trails.visitazores.com/en/trails-azores/terceira) that take visitors through the varied landscapes of Terceira from vast plains to dense stands of cedar that block out the sun to fields littered with lava rocks and chunks of obsidian.
All along the roads and hills, you'll find hydrangea growing abundantly contrasting with the stands of Kahili ginger which grows with its stalks of golden flower clusters that waft a faint scent of jasmine anywhere you are on the island. Each breath is as if scented by flowers!
While there are only two sandy beaches on the island, the coast is dotted with "zona balnear" or public bathing areas. Each has its own character and offers visitors a different experience so be sure to plan your travel to visit as many as you can!
Terceira, even more so than Taiwan, offers a density that makes it an amazing destination as it minimizes the travel necessary to experience the sights. Though its public transportation system is lacking compared to Taiwan, the ease with which one can be hiking in the mountains in the morning to jumping into the Atlantic within a few minutes offers visitors a variety that is hard to match!
Come along as we explore this amazing nature of Terceira!
Days
Day 1: Depart 11 AM JFK
Departure and arrival
<p>Our flight departed from JFK and arrived at TER in the evening. The flight was uneventful, but be sure to look out the window as you approach Terceira as you will see the peak of Mount Pico (the highest point in Portugal) on Pico Island on the way in. The JFK flight arrives in the evening and there is no place to pick up a SIM card that we could locate. You'll need to plan to pick up a SIM card on Monday if you need one (we did not end up needing one!) as many shops are closed on Sundays. The ATMs in the airport were out of bills so we were also not able to use the ATMs. There are also no counters to exchange currency. But luckily, most places accept credit cards!</p>
Stay
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Casa dos Romeiros
A fantastic stay with a warm and accommodating host. The property is quite remote with a fantastic view of the ocean. The rooms are right-sized and comfortable. Everything was extremely clean. The daily continental breakfasts had something for everyone and was a perfect way to start our days of hiking. https://www.casadosromeiros.com/
Transit
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Aerogare Civil das Lajes
Lajes airport (TER) is the entry point to Terceira. The airport -- a former (active?) air force base -- is quite small and requires a bus to transport from terminal to and from the aircraft. -
Go Rent-a-Car Terceira
Very smooth rental process and the only one available with an automatic on the whole island for the week that we were there. Because they are not located directly at the airport, the procedure to pick up and return is a bit different but I think actually better! This was by far the most expensive part of the trip (costing even more than the airfare) but you will absolutely need a car to get the most out of your trip.
Photos
Day 2: West Coast
Hiking the interior west coast
<p>Our first day started with the most ambitious hike: the 6.8 km Serreta-Lagoinha trail which summits at Lagoinha -- a small lake in the remnants of a volcanic crater. The hike features varied landscapes and offers a very challenging yet rewarding experience all the ways to the top. The views to the ocean are spectacular at the top!</p><p>Be prepared with water and snacks as this hike took us just over 3hrs to complete. </p><p>From here, we drove north to Miradouro da Ponta do Queimado where you can see crystal blue waters crashing against the rocky shores. A sheer cliff wall provides a dramatic view of the coast and a preview of the amazing sights ahead. Drive a bit further north to Mata da Serreta where you can take a break and watch the sublime fountain at the entrance of the park and relax after the challenging hike!</p><p>We finished our day at Biscoitos and recommend that you avoid the main swim areas as it is quite crowded. The port area to the west was much more interesting and fun as you can dive 3 meters off of a pier into the ocean.</p><p>We ended our day in downtown Angra as we planned to get a SIM card, but it turns out that most shops were closed on Sunday!</p>
Visit
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Serreta-Lagoinha Trail
This was the most challenging trail on the island that we undertook. It is a circular trail that is 6.8 KM estimated at 2.5hrs to complete. It took us 3hr total. Be prepared with water and snacks as the hike up has plenty of challenging spots. The view at the top is breathtaking and absolutely worth the hike! -
Lagoinha
A small lake located at the top of the trail that sits in the crater of an extinct volcano. -
Miradouro da Ponta do Queimado
Stop here to watch the azure waves crashing on the rocky beach and see the stunning cliff wall. -
Mata da Serreta
A small park and forest area with a sublime fountain that you can sit and watch for hours! -
Piscinas Naturais Biscoitos
Can be overcrowded in the main pool area. Jumping off at the port to the west is much more exciting! Don't miss the various other spots around the island which offer even more exciting experiences like Quatro Ribeiras and Cinco Ribeiras.
Eat
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Padaria Délia Martins
A nice little shop to stop at for a snack. Very reasonably priced. We stopped here multiple days to have snacks on hand. https://facebook.com/deliamartinsunip -
Snack-Bar Copacabana
Just so-so; not recommended. There are better places nearby. -
Marina Grill - Quinta dos Açores
We stopped here for ice cream and watch the ocean from the port. https://www.quintadosacores.com/restaurante-marina-grill/
Stay
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Casa dos Romeiros
A fantastic stay with a warm and accommodating host. The property is quite remote with a fantastic view of the ocean. The rooms are right-sized and comfortable. Everything was extremely clean. The daily continental breakfasts had something for everyone and was a perfect way to start our days of hiking. https://www.casadosromeiros.com/
Photos
Day 3: East Coast + Hiking Monte Brasil
Ocean kayaking and a downtown hike
<p>We started the day with a guided kayak and snorkeling tour with Rope Adventures. Our guides, Emanuel and Guilherme were amazing and took us along the cost of Terceira heading south from Porto Martins. Here, the cliff walls become increasingly spectacular! it is impossible to express how amazing the view was. Then we jumped right off of the kayak for the snorkeling part of our tour. The entire route is approximately 5 miles of kayaking so it can be quite challenging; make sure that you are physically prepared for this and hydrate before you leave!</p><p>In the afternoon, we hiked up Monte Brasil and visited the cat colony located near the center. The hike is quite easy aside from the initial ascent and offers a panoramic view of the ocean and the city of Angra at the top.</p><p>We finished our day with dinner at Galinha do Diniz. The fried chicken is absolutely delicious! Consider ordering a whole chicken as these are local chicken that are pasture raised and not the freakishly big chickens that we have in the US.</p>
Visit
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Rope Adventures
Rope Adventures offers a variety of guided activities dependent on the time of year. We chose the kayak + snorkeling combo and the trip took us out from Porto Martin along the coast. The views here are spectacular and provide a view of the island that cannot be experienced otherwise. Bring cash as payment is cash only! https://www.ropeadventures.pt/ -
Porto Martins
This was our launch point for the kayak tour and we headed southwest from here along the coast. Breathtaking views! The port is also suitable for swimming, snorkeling, and diving. Much less crowded than Biscoitos. -
Piscinas Naturais de Porto Martins
The port is also suitable for swimming, snorkeling, and diving. Much less crowded than Biscoitos. -
Monte Brasil
A 7.4 km hike that takes you up and around Monte Brasil with stunning views of Angra at the peak. It is an easy hike with only one section of difficult ascent at the beginning. You can choose to take a shorter route by cutting through the middle at the cat colony as we did. -
Cat Colony on Monte Brasil
A small cat colony located at the center of Monte Brasil near the viewpoint of the Caldeira. The cats are well kept and very friendly. Worth a stop along your hike!
Eat
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Galinha do Diniz
Chicken was delicious. The local chickens are smaller so order the whole chicken for two. The place gets busy later in the evening so arrive early to have a seat!
Stay
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Casa dos Romeiros
A fantastic stay with a warm and accommodating host. The property is quite remote with a fantastic view of the ocean. The rooms are right-sized and comfortable. Everything was extremely clean. The daily continental breakfasts had something for everyone and was a perfect way to start our days of hiking. https://www.casadosromeiros.com/
Transit
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Parque de Estacionamento do Relvão
Parking lot to start the hike of Monte Brasil
Photos
Day 4: Interior Hikes (West)
Getting lost in the woods
<p>This day, we started with a hike up Rocha de Chambre. While all of the trails in Terceira were extremely well marked and generally hard to get lost, we did manage to lose our way on this trail so be sure to keep an eye out on your location. The trail starts in an open area littered with volcanic rocks and overgrown with small shrubs under which the path will guide you.</p><p>Past that, you will enter into an absolutely sublime cedar forest where the uniquely shaped trees will simply astound.</p><p>From there, the trail ascends and it is here you will have to watch where you are on the map as it is possible to get off course here if you follow one of the offshoot trails. We ended up hiking back along the main road instead.</p><p>Afterwards, we did our laundry near Angra. This is a great way to reduce your packing by planning a day for laundry. Expect to spend about 1 hr (30min wash, 20 min dry). There are only three machines so it may be the case that you won't have a free machine! Afterwards, we headed to Zona Balnear do Negrito which featured formations of black lava rocks. This beach featured some interesting tide pools to explore and soak in, but the main swimming area on this day was quite abundant in algae, making it hard to spot the jellyfish!</p><p>Dinner was at q.b. which I recommend for families that are more adapt to western fare as it features many options for picky eaters. It can get busy later in the evening so either make a reservation or come early. Prices are reasonable and we ended up visiting here again!</p>
Visit
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Rocha de Chambre hike start Trilho Rocha do Chambre - PRC06
A moderately challenging circular hike that is 8.8 KM @ 2.5 hours. We lost our way on this hike as it branches off into another trail so be sure to take a picture of the map before setting off and keep checking your position. The variety of scenery along this hike is quite amazing. On one of our detours, we saw a herd of horses. http://trails.visitazores.com/en/trails-azores/terceira/rocha-do-chambre -
Zona Balnear do Negrito
A swimming area with plenty of tide pools to explore. https://angradoheroismo.pt/negrito/ -
La Wash S. Pedro
Stopped here to do our laundry as our swimwear needed a refresh! Easy to operate and quite cheap with detergent and fabric softener automatically added and included in the price. -
Continente Modelo São Carlos
Stop here for basic supplies and snacks. We picked up protein bars as well as dried fruit and popcorn for our hikes.
Eat
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q.b. - Food Court q.b. - Restaurante
A great option for families as there is a large variety of foods to choose from that are suitable for more picky eaters while still offering more sophisticated choices. https://www.qbangra.com/
Stay
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Casa dos Romeiros
A fantastic stay with a warm and accommodating host. The property is quite remote with a fantastic view of the ocean. The rooms are right-sized and comfortable. Everything was extremely clean. The daily continental breakfasts had something for everyone and was a perfect way to start our days of hiking. https://www.casadosromeiros.com/
Photos
Day 5: Northern Coast
Spectacular nature from mountains to coasts
<p>Our day started with a hike of the trail that starts at Algar do Carvao. As the caves do not open until 2 PM, doing the loop trail that starts just south of the parking lot here is a great way to start the day. The trail will take you around the Furnas do Enxofre (sulfur vents) and back to the parking lot with time to spare for a break before heading in. Plan to enter the cave at opening or wait an hour instead for the crowds to dissipate.</p><p>The hike here offers spectacular views around the center of the island and has a challenging downhill descent if you do it counter clockwise. This route is quite exposed to be sure to wear sunscreen and appropriate gear as there's not much shade like many of the other routes on the island.</p><p>After the hike, we headed north to Miradouro de Alagoa which features STUNNING views of basalt (?) columns along the northern coast. It is simply spectacular and not to be missed! There is another hike here along the coast to Ponta do Misterio, but after the moderately challenging hike around Furnas do Enxofre, you may not have enough gas for this one!</p><p>Instead, we headed over to Quatro Ribeiras beach where we had a BLAST jumping off of the cliffs into the ocean. This beach area is fantastic and features a salt water swimming pool suitable for small kiddos. I would absolutely recommend this over Biscoitos if you are already at the northern coast.</p>
Visit
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Algar do Carvão
There is a loop trail that connects to Furnas do Enxofre at 6.2 km and 2.5hr. It is absolutely worth the hike as the views are amazing. Come early (around 10 AM) and complete the hike around 1 PM. Take a short break as the caves open at 2 PM. The entrance fee is 10 euro per person. Plan to either arrive early or late as the lines start to form after 2:30 PM but it was clear by the time we exited. -
Furnas do Enxofre
We stopped here as part of the loop trail starting from Algar do Carvao. If you don't want to do the full loop trail, it's still worth it to hike from Algar do Carvao to Furnas do Enxofre (= Sulfur) as the short hike still provides plenty of stunning views. -
Miradouro de Alagoa
An absolutely amazing viewpoint that is along the northern coast and tucked into the country side! There are few places in the world that could match the stunning views here! There's a hike here to the west via Viewpoint Lavacoast that seems to go past the farmland to Ponta do misterio, but even without the hike it is hard to not sit in awe at the beauty of this site! -
Ponta do mistério
From Miraduoro de Algoa, there is a hiking trail that leads here: https://trails.visitazores.com/en/trails-azores/terceira/baias-da-agualva -
Quatro Ribeiras Beach Praia das 4 Ribeiras
One of the top swimming holes that we visited as it featured deep waters and many dramatic diving points! Highly recommended and even better than the more well known Biscoitos!
Eat
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q.b. - Food Court q.b. - Restaurante
A great option for families as there is a large variety of foods to choose from that are suitable for more picky eaters while still offering more sophisticated choices. https://www.qbangra.com/
Stay
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Casa dos Romeiros
A fantastic stay with a warm and accommodating host. The property is quite remote with a fantastic view of the ocean. The rooms are right-sized and comfortable. Everything was extremely clean. The daily continental breakfasts had something for everyone and was a perfect way to start our days of hiking. https://www.casadosromeiros.com/
Photos
Day 6: Downtown, Shopping, and More Diving!
Exploring the historical downtown of Angra
<p>We decided to take it easy on this day and bypass the hikes as we needed more rest!</p><p>Our day started downtown where we visited the botanic gardens which feature a winding path up to the Memória a D. Pedro IV. The path is lined with flowers and shade and along the way offers views of Angra and Monte Brasil. It is worth the easy climb to the top for the view!</p><p>From here, we headed to Serra do Cume near the central eastern part of the island. Here it is possible to see both the eastern coast as well as the eastern interior farm lands. It is a fantastic place to take a break and take it all in. Below the observation deck is a stand of the endemic Kahili ginger which wafts a faint jasmine scent whenever the wind blows.</p><p>From here, we drove to see the Gruta das Agulhas, but our timing of the tide meant that it was too dangerous to make it over to the cave (nonetheless a spectacular view of the ocean).</p><p>We ended our day at the beach at Cinco Ribeiras which offered a perfect diving point into the ocean.</p>
Visit
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Duke Of Terceira Garden Jardim Duque da Terceira
Located in downtown Angra, this botanic garden features a winding climb up to The memorial of Pedro IV. As you climb, the views of Angra become increasingly more amazing. I strongly recommend wandering this garden and making the climb! -
Memória a D. Pedro IV
A monument located at the top of a climb from the botanic gardens, this viewpoint offers a view of the city of Angra and Monte Brasil. -
Marina Souvenirs
A good place to stop for some souvenirs! -
Mercado Duque de Bragança
This market was mostly empty when we were there, but we did manage to pick up some snacks at one of the open bakeries there. -
Miradouro da Serra do Cume
A viewpoint which overlooks the eastern interior and cost of the island. Form here, you can see the airport and main port on one side and the bountiful fields on the other. The drive down featured some huge hydrangea flowers! -
Gruta das Agulhas
There is no parking lot so you'll need to find street parking nearby and walk down where you see the sign. You'll see a series of steps and once at the bottom of the steps, you'll need to climb over the rocks to the right to get to the cave entrance. It is not (safely) reachable during high tides so time this with low tides! -
Zona balnear das Cinco Ribeiras
Like Quatro Ribeiras, this swimming hole is underrated! It featured deep diving spots as well as a large swimming zone. Highly recommended
Eat
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Galinha do Diniz
One of the best places to get chicken on the island! Be sure to get here early as it is packed by late evening! -
Casa Da Galinha Parmagiana
https://pt-pt.facebook.com/Casa-da-Galinha-Parmagiana-694302050684968/ we didn't get to stop here, but this is on our list for next time!
Stay
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Casa dos Romeiros
A fantastic stay with a warm and accommodating host. The property is quite remote with a fantastic view of the ocean. The rooms are right-sized and comfortable. Everything was extremely clean. The daily continental breakfasts had something for everyone and was a perfect way to start our days of hiking. https://www.casadosromeiros.com/
Photos
Day 7: Central Points and Ice Cream!
A relaxing final day
<p>Our final day, we visited some sights that we bypassed along our other days.</p><p>First stop was Lagoa das Patas where we watched the feral roosters and ducks wander the small lake. </p><p>From there, we drove just a bit to the east to the Black Forest which is a dense stand of cedars that offers a serene place to relax. There's no parking here so consider parking near the parking area where Tasca Alegra-te is located and walking east to the unmarked entrance of the forest. This location has a small bullfighting ring and you may find young men here challenging themselves to a bullfight.</p><p>For lunch, we stopped at Quinta dos Azores which featured locally produced fare including steaks, burgers, and ice creams. Terceira is one of the largest dairy producing regions of Portugal with double the number of cows as there are people! So be sure to savor the local grass-grazed beef, cheeses, and ice cream! The view from this location is also quite amazing as it overlooks Angra and Monte Brasil.</p><p>From here, we ended our day at Zona Balnear Escaleiras which was one of the more unique swimming holes we visited. The beach features a pier which separates a large inner "bay" and the outer open ocean. Here, the waves will wash up onto the pier for a unique experience that is hard to find anywhere else!</p>
Visit
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Lagoa das Patas
A small lake located in the interior of the island surrounded by a park. Worth the time to stop here on a low-key day like this day and watch the local roosters and ducks! -
Floresta Negra - Black Forest
A serene stand of cedars which crowds out the sun! -
Zona Balnear Escaleiras
This was one of the more unique swimming holes that we visited. On this day, the waves were INTENSE so it washed the water over the pier. It has to be experienced!
Eat
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Quinta dos Açores
Terceira island has approximately 120,000 cows (to 56,000 people) so be sure to stop here to have steak and ice cream. The prices are reasonable and you are able to see the production facility for beef, cheese, and ice cream! http://www.quintadosacores.com/ -
Casa Da Galinha
A small family owned shop that's quite hard to spot from the street as the signage is non-existent! You can only spot it when you walk up to it. The menu is simple and the fried chicken is delectable! -
Tasca Alegra-te
Possibly the only place to eat near the center of the island. It is located near a bullfighting ring where you can find crowds gathered as young men practice their skills!
Stay
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Casa dos Romeiros
A fantastic stay with a warm and accommodating host. The property is quite remote with a fantastic view of the ocean. The rooms are right-sized and comfortable. Everything was extremely clean. The daily continental breakfasts had something for everyone and was a perfect way to start our days of hiking. https://www.casadosromeiros.com/
Photos
Day 8: Depart 7:25 AM
<p>On your day of departure, plan ahead to refuel your rental car near the airport. There are several gas stations located nearby so it is easy to do.</p><p>Be sure to use "gasolina 95" if you rented a gas car and not "gasoleo" which is diesel.</p><p>I found that the flight out was significantly more packed than the flight in. Not quite full, but still perhaps 80-90% capacity compared to the 20% capacity on the way in. This might be due to folks transferring through TER to the US.</p>
Stay
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Casa dos Romeiros
A fantastic stay with a warm and accommodating host. The property is quite remote with a fantastic view of the ocean. The rooms are right-sized and comfortable. Everything was extremely clean. The daily continental breakfasts had something for everyone and was a perfect way to start our days of hiking. https://www.casadosromeiros.com/
Transit
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Galp
Refuel your rental car here. Remember: Gasolina 95 is regular unleaded gasoline. Gasoleo is diesel fuel. -
Aerogare Civil das Lajes
Return your rental car here and depart. Plan to arrive early as the airport is small so there aren't many staff. Lines can move slow!
Checklists
Checklist: Phrases
- Thank you - Obrigado
- Thank you so much - Muito obrigado
- Hello - Olá
- Goodbye - Adeus
- Please - Por favor
- No thank you - Não, obrigado
- Restroom - Banheiro
- Delicious - Delicioso
- Excellent - Excelente
- Good morning - bom dia
- Good night - boa noite
Checklist: Tips and Notes
- The yellow flowers are a type of ornamental ginger known as Kahili ginger
- Like other parts of Europe, you cannot flush toilet paper here so you should always place your toilet paper folded up into the bin
- Watch carefully for jellyfish before you enter into any ocean water
- Download offline maps for the entire island before setting off
Checklist: Terms
- Zona Balnear - Bathing Area or public beach
- Zona de Lazer - Leisure area/park
- Miradouro - Viewpoint or lookout
- Gasoleo - Diesel
- Gasolina - Gasoline
- Galinha - Hen, chicken
- Trilho - Trailhead
Checklist: Things to Bring
- Tether for glasses for water activities
- Hats
- Two plug adapters (type F)
- Box of protein bars for hikes and snack on the go
- Bags for wet clothes
- Phone lanyard
- Waterproof phone case
- Sunblock and SPF lip balm
Notes
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https://picosdeaventura.com/en/2024/05/09/organismos-marinhos-gelatinoso-dos-acores/
Note on jellyfish and Man o' Wars in the waters of the Azores
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https://trails.visitazores.com/en/trails-azores/terceira
Inventory of hiking trails in Terceira
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https://www.ropeadventures.pt/index.php/en/
Booking page for Rope Adventures
FAQ
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Should I bring cash when visiting Terceira island?
No, it is not necessary. Most establishments will accept credit cards (and in fact, may prefer it). The airport has no currency exchange counter so there is no use in bringing non-Euro currency to the island.
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What is the weather like in August on Terceira island?
The weather is generally mild and dry with very little rain. However, it may still have a few sprinklings to be prepared. Some parts of the island can be humid while other parts feel quite dry if there is a wind blowing. Generally, pack shorts and t-shirts for August.
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What is it like to drive on the island of Terceira?
Driving can be hectic as the streets are narrow and the locals tend to drive fast! Take your time and keep your eyes out as you'll need to be on your guard for not only motorists, but also donkeys and tractors!
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What is the difference between gasoleo and gasolina? Which do I put in my car?
Gasoleo is diesel fuel while gasolina is unleaded gasoline. Be careful not to mix the two as this can be a costly mistake.
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Can I drink the tap water on Terceira?
Yes, the tap water is fine to drink. Bring a reusable water bottle and refill it each day to save on plastic waste.
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How many days should I plan to visit Terceira?
6 days seems to be about right allowing visitors to partake in a different hike and beach each day. The hikes are rather challenging so you may find that you cannot complete hikes on all 6 days. But be sure to provide yourself time to visit all of the various zona balnear as each has a different character and offers a different experience!
Summary: 6 Days in Terceira, Portugal
Terceira offers an abundance of amazing sights natural sights. Because most of the swimming is in deep ocean waters and because of the presence of jellyfish (specifically Pelagia noctiluca) and Portugeus Man o' War (depending on seasonality), it is perhaps not as suitable for younger or less capable swimmers.
The island seems to be a relatively unknown destination perhaps because of its more agricultural focus. As such, it offers relatively good value for your money as both the air fare, lodging, and food are priced reasonably (the rental car is a different story!).
This is an island that we will return to for certain!
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Maker of Turas.app! I'm a startup software engineer who enjoys traveling and experiencing other cultures.
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